Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG 2021

Sardinia has seen more than 75% of its vineyards grubbed up since 1990. Extreme poverty allied to generous EU subsidies has led to widespread removal of older, less productive vineyards. It’s a great shame as the island is blessed with an ideal climate, poor soils, and the viticultural legacy of multiple invaders. As far as white grapes are concerned, Vermentino is the stand-out star of the show and claims its own DOCG in the NE corner: Vermentino di Gallura. Planted around the Mediterranean, Vermentino always has a satisfying, oily texture and decent levels of alcohol but it reaches its apogee here in northern Sardinia where the nose picks up exotic fruit and a saline edge that never fails to hold one’s interest. It has exceptional longevity and is utterly gorgeous with freshly grilled fish. Andrea Ledda purchased the old Capichera vineyards and made the most of their ideal exposure on granite soils just a couple of kilometres from the sea. The vines struggle and hence produce a meagre crop of highly concentrated grapes that are treated to nothing but stainless steel. The ‘Solianu’ is unctuous with notes of tinned peaches, lychee, tangerine, and a herbal twist.